Tuesday 3rd April 2018 Condé to Soulanges 39kms 8 locks

8.1ºC. Showers, some very heavy and short gaps between them, cold wind. We were doing the reverse of last year's trip to start with as our intended route wasn't feasible - river Marne in full flood and dangerous and the other rivers towards Paris are also likewise in flood (Oise and Aisne) AND the d'Heuilley canal (Marne-a-la Saone was also shut as they were making more locks automatic. Therefore the Marne-au-Rhin is our only option.  It was 9.10am when we set off, waving to a fisherman on the old silo quay as we turned left on the Latéral à la Marne on to the long straight. The banks were full of wild primroses. Empty péniche Andorra had been left for the Easter holidays below our first lock Vraux lock 11. The lock was empty and so we were soon in the chamber and rising after I’d lifted the blue rod. A man in a white van paused on the tail end bridge to watch us lock through. The long straight continued. A

Nice new paintwork covered with graffiti

couple were walking the towpath, plus one man and his dog. Made a cuppa en route to lock 10 Juvigny. It was full, so that slowed us down as we had to wait while it emptied. Above the lock the banks were purple, full of violets. 7kms to Châlons and the wind was very chilly blowing across the drowned fields to our right, and so cold that I went in the cabin and put an extra layer of clothes on. The rain poured down as we went past St Martin-en-le-Prè with two mallard drakes flying in front of the boat. I lifted the rod before I put a rope on the bollard in Châlons

Cormorant on a tree root

lock. The lady keeper came out and we had a lecture on ropes, it was obligatory to be attached to a bollard while locking and we had a good telling off! With a broad smile though. We promised we'd be good and use ropes where possible without being dangerous. Past the circus school in the rain and on to lock 8 Sarry. I put a rope on a bollard using my boat pole, it took ages, not easy as it was so high up - full stretch of my arm plus boat shaft, and I was soaked by the time I lifted the blue rod. Changed my lightweight, now very wet showerproof jacket for an ancient rubberised waterproof one. Made some lunch and a

Boats moored in old arm in Chalons

cuppa. Up lock 7 St Germain – sure that the old empty lock house had been recently been renovated since we were last here (looked at photos later - it had certainly been repainted). Above the lock a stream was pouring muddy water into the canal. Through Pogny where a DB called Liberty was moored – windows opened and hands came out waving as we passed. Loaded péniche Melinda was coming down in lock 6 La Chaussée, Monsieur was washing down after just loading and Madame was waving from the wheelhouse as they went by. The rain pelted

Boats moored in the port-de-plaisance in Chalons

down as we went up lock 5 Ablancourt which was empty. A couple with a car and a tent were

braving the weather to fish in the canal - not only us that are mad enough to brave the lousy weather! Up Soulange lock 4 and we were the only boat on the moorings – two campers were parked on the opposite bank and our old friend Gerard was waiting for Mike (we were ten minutes later than we thought we'd be). Tied up and Mike put the dish up (so I could record stuff on TV if he was late getting back), then Gerard gave him a lift back to Condé to collect the car.